BAT leash skills live demo – for aggression rehab and all dogs (CC) * Turn CAPTIONS on to understand

We clipped on the a leash, then unclipped the old leash [talking about how to transfer leashes without having dog off leash] When Ranger is stationary, I can move around. Usually what I do with the BAT leash skills is that I shorten the line back up to Basic
Position so I’m standing relatively near him. . The cool thing about the leash skills is that if the dog wants to explore the whole area, I don’t even really need to move. So I don’t need to get in his way or tell
him which way to go. He’s completely free to be his own dog. At this point, I can go a little
closer to him just because that gives him more range of motion . If he wanted to go that way, for example. I have this piece (bows) in one hand and the other arm is my ‘braking hand. I use my right hand for the handle because I tore my shoulder while rock climbing, so it is my weaker arm. This is my stronger arm now [left]. I have a knot tied in the leash here. [near the snap] In case he were to bolt, I’d have something more to grab. If I need to get his attention (oops not there, he’s got treats) I could do mime pulling, which is sliding along the leash [not really pulling] and then using my body
to get his attention. Notice that if I go over here, he’s probably going go to go that
way next, because I’m biasing him in that direction. He’s generally walking in the same
direction as me. With BAT, it’s important that we pay attention to that because we could
accidentally lead a dog toward triggers. A BAT set-up should look pretty much like this
when he’s going in a neutral direction, Let the line out and then gather it up when he’s stopped. He says “oh my god, this is the best day ever!” So again, I’ll demonstrate
mime pulling [used to move away when calling doesn’t work] I gather up the line, get into
his peripheral vision with sliding, make sure my balance is good, (kissy noise)… He says
“nope, I’m not going with you.” “Yay! This way!” With a long line, you can also sneak away from them like this. And again notice I’m biasing him to go in this direction [with my body position]. Now I’m going to change his direction. I’ll go this way, which again biases him to walk this way. With the BAT leash skills, be sure you’re not leading them toward something dangerous [or this much at all]. Notice the floor is a bit of concern to him. He liked walking on the blue a bit better. This allows him to walk on the surface optionally, without being pulled onto it. If he wants to go on it, he can. BAT is really boring. 🙂 It’s not a zippy, flying around dog. It looks like a dog that just explores the world. That’s what we want, is a dog who is capable of doing things on his own. And
then in between [like on a walk for a few minutes or when no triggers are around], you could do things like heel. I usually do a little bit of formal training and then back to BAT-style walking out on a walk. So if these were people walking around, if each of these Klimbs were a person, then I might want to avoid them and not let my dog go up and sniff them, Right? “Hi, good job!” “You don’t have to be in heel.” So if that was a person I would
just keep him from walking up [assuming he doesn’t just have a Leave it or heel cue – demonstrated Slow Stop] Ooops he totally jumped on this ‘child’ while I was busy talking. “Let’s go” Ok now let’s say that’s a tree, so I can let him go up to that We just switch back and forth
between a shorter line and longer one. We can use the BAT leash skills on a regular walk. Any questions? [asked helper to put more treats out] “Do you have any advice on how to keep track of whether the bow you
gather up is on the outside or inside?” [Repeating back] “Do you know if it’s an outside or inside
loop?” One way to do that is to separate your hands and here, it’s coming out at the pinky
[I can feel it] so I know that I need to have my next loop coming out at the pinky [outside loop]. And if it’s like this then the next loop has to be at the thumb. [inside loop] Other
questions? For those of you who weren’t at the talk before [at APDT] the reason that I hold the leash like this, with these bows is because I want to make sure that I don’t
break any fingers. If I do it this way, with a circle, and the dog pulls, I break my fingers, so I make sure that it’s not wrapped around my fingers whatsoever. So let’s do some Slow Stops. After he’s moving again, I’m going to Slow Stop and relax the leash. Now I’ll bias him to walk this direction. This happens a lot, say there was a trigger over there, where the person accidentally leads the dog toward the trigger. He says “Oh, I’ll go this way.” I’ll do a Slow Stop. I Relax the Line. Here, my elbow was out. If he were really
strongly pulling, that wouldn’t work. So I’m going to keep my elbows in. The fact that it was
hard to stop him gently here would mean [*kissy noise*] that I was too close to a trigger. “Okay” [permission to go back] So if you’re trying to do a Slow Stop and they go right back that means you’re too close. Other questions? “I have a student right now who has a lab puppy and he likes to use a long line. However
this puppy is now eating the stray cat poop, and that is what he sniffs out and finds.
How can we use the long line still and let him sniff, but now he’s sniffing out cat poop.” [Grisha doing mime pulling training with Premack principle] [paraphrasing back] “In this case we have
a dog who’s sniffing, which is important on a walk, but he’s eating cat poop, is that
it? Gotcha.” One thing is to find an area for your BAT set-up that’s doesn’t have cat
poop but this is happening on the walks, right? One thing is to make sure he’s well
fed before the walk, that could help. Potentially conditioning a muzzle, so seeking it is not getting reinforced, by getting any, and also working on cat poop as a signal, basically making him a cat
poop search and rescue [detection] dog. Have him signal to the handler, “hey I found some cat poop” “Oh sorry buddy!” “I don’t know why I just pulled on you, but you can go back.” In my [demo] vision of what was happening, he was headed toward a trigger, so I did a slow stop, but I’m just going to
go back to letting him wander. Because he wasn’t really pulling, he was just going faster
than me [in a neutral direction], I could just let out the long line. Other questions? I’m keeping it off the ground so the dog doesn’t step on it. [audience] “Would this be helpful with anxiety?” Yes. For those of you who weren’t at the talk before. BAT is a technique for frustration,
fear, and aggression, whenever arousal is higher than you would expect it to be in a certain situation. I use it even without a trigger, like this, where they’re just wandering
around a park [or the city] to get used to the space that’s there, and of course there
are triggers, but not yet ones you’ve arranged. It’s also good for shelter dogs to get exercise,
versus just polite walking or heeling. But yes, very, very good for anxiety. If you have dogs who are anxious just going outside, you can do an activity like this inside and then
start to transition. So leave the door open, then start to have a few boxes outside, and
then go from there. You don’t have to use Klimbs, it’s just what we have here today. Enrich it with anything. I’ve used boxes of rabbit poop with holes or fur you can get from a groomer,
whatever else. Doing walks like this introduce your dog to this concept. Here, notice again, once he stops, I go back into Basic Position so that he’s got maximum range of movement. If I was really doing a BAT set-up, I wouldn’t have tightened the leash this entire time because there’s not any triggers in this space. If there was a trigger, I’d do a Slow Stop if he’s headed toward that. One more question? [audience] “How do we deal with a dog who is highly reactive and redirects back to the handler?” Grisha:”In this situation?” Audience: “no” Grisha: “So he’s seeing a trigger, like another dog, and then redirects to the handler?” We very rarely see redirection unless the dog has had a history of corrections [aversive training]. In positive training, that’s not really something dogs will do. With the long line, you have that happen even less because they are farther away. Redirection is usually an instant almost reflex, right here, they bite you. “oh sorry, I didn’t let you go to your mom again.” “Want to go back?” Anyway, so this kind of walking does help
them learn that they are not going to get a bunch of corrections and that can
help a lot. Also I would condition a muzzle for the handler’s safety. And really make
sure that when you’re working, the trigger is far enough away that the arousal doesn’t
go up. And then also teaching other coping skills like a really solid sit-stay if you’re still seeing the dog come back. “I think we’re at time, is that true?” “Let’s give a nice
round of applause for Grisha and Ranger.”

4 thoughts on “BAT leash skills live demo – for aggression rehab and all dogs (CC) * Turn CAPTIONS on to understand

  1. SOOO happy to see dog videos from you again.. I have a list of 10 dog trainers/behaviorists/ethologs in the world that i admire – and you are one of them 🙂 Sharing the space with Anders Hallgren, Nando Brown, His girlfriend Jo-Rosie and their partner Dean N, Roger Abrantes, C.Alupo, Turid Rugaas, Susan Garrett and the Glasgow Dogtrainer… YOU guys are my heroes and are changing the world one dog and one day at the time …oxox from Norway

  2. I read your BAT 2.0 book, and needed to "See" it! Will you be in Denver any time soon? Would love to go to a seminar you're speaking at 🙂 Also, do you have any recommendations for set ups for those who live in downtown??? I feel like there are dogs EVEERY-WHEREEE I wouldn't be able to do a proper set up

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