Hello I’m Odin and today I get to play with the Elegoo Mars 3d printer Right out of the box I was surprised that the cover is a totally separate removable piece. The insides are packed really well, and it’s always fun to unwrap something new. My experience with 3d printers is still new but even for me the controls are familiar and easy to navigate. Because I have done it before setting the build plate by hand went quickly, but I should always read the instructions first because the Elegoo Mars has an auto set to zero for the build plate. Loosen the two screws on either side of the ball joint, align the plate with the LCD screen and click move z-axis to zero. and the Mars finds its own zero point. The ball joint is spring-loaded I imagine the motor registers the resistance from the spring finding it’s zero point and then you just tighten the screws to set it in place. I check the LCD screen, everything lights up just like it’s supposed to. Replace the resin tank and the Machine is ready for resin and to start printing. The Mars came with all the basic tools you need for printing a scraper, some hand tools, the exact same side cutters that I had when I was building Gundam, gloves and masks to protect you from the uncured resin and a plastic beaker to help you with cleaning your uncured resin, before you pour it back into the bottle for storage. The resin is UV sensitive it hardens when it’s exposed to UV light the LCD panel changes for each layer and exposes the thin layer of resin for a few seconds the liquid resin hardens and bonds with what its touching, either the build plate or the previous layer of resin. The UV light turns off, the build plate rises to let fresh resin in and then lowers to the right height to expose the next layer. So the prints just rise up out of the fluid resin, upside down. So I’ve completed the test print and what’s neat is these guys didn’t take any additional structure pieces, this is just straight off the build plate from the printer and with a resin printer the sides are all really smooth. I actually don’t see any weird aberrations on it and then as a test print piece I like this because it’s not a basic geometric shape, it’s like a rook from a chess set. It has the outward spiral that’s holding it up but inside there’s actually a little tiny DNA helix and a staircase so if you had little tiny knights like n scale or maybe Z scale for trains that might be the right size people put on this. So for a test print this is really kind of fun. But we want to print something we can build. Fast forward a few hours, one of the things I’m really enjoying about the resin printers is be able to print small props. I love building things, I like building things by hand, but there’s a certain size to that that’s easy to do tiny things not so much for me anyway. So this is the Noisy Cricket from Men in Black, I’m sure many of you have already recognized what it is. The models is free to use I’ve got the link in the description. The Mars I’m pretty happy with the detail on this I think looks really good. All I’ve done with these is taken the support pieces off, this is still basically straight off the build plate. and as I look at it it’s really hard to see any kind of layer lines- They are there where the light hits it right but honestly, compared to what I’ve seen with a filament style printer my opinion this is ready to paint I don’t need to do any other real finishing on this. So let’s break out the airbrush and get this painted up. A good friend who is an avid Gundam builder, loaned me his spray booth so I could paint right in my shop. “I got a new paint booth!” We decided to use a flat clear primer sealer, believing it would give us the finest coat of primer to start with. I’m using the Alclad II gloss black and chrome to paint my Noisy Cricket. First step is to cover everything with the glossy black base coat. I was probably overly careful, this being my first time. Trying to do a light even coat to avoid drips or runs. When the black dries you can move on to the chrome finish, and the results are immediate. I really like the Alclad II and I want to use it more and using a spray booth is great it’s a little awkward when you stand to the side so a camera can see in there too. I had to remember to keep the parts inside the booth so the filters can do their job. Okay these are just printed and then just painted I didn’t do any sort of cleanup work on the parts after they came out of the Mars printer. I’m real happy with how this looks. There are the faintest of layer lines that I can see because of the chrome but this is fine. I could just glue it together and call it done, but I want the Cricket to light up. And I have an LED glow stick to do just that. The round stick is a little small for the cricket but I have a second one from a dollar store that is nearly perfect. I cut the bigger stick to fit, and trim the back to fit around the shapes that are near the hammer of the cricket. I cut out a section of the stick because the diameter is still not a perfect fit for the inside of the cricket. I can slip it over the rest of the same stick which opens up the top layer a little and now it’s a perfect fit- “yeah.” I removed the front of the stick but leave enough so the barrel can fit right over it. I can super glue the entire cricket together, except the barrel- that just fits on the tube. Even though it was just that I’d be pretty happy but I still want to make it light up. The blue LEDs and batteries are pretty small and will easily fit inside the other stick which fits in the barrel piece that won’t be glued on I can change the batteries later when I need to. I just need to switch to turn on the LED. I want to keep it simple so I’m not gonna make the trigger work. so I’m gonna use the switch out of some battery-operated Christmas lights the lights don’t exist anywhere anyway so I’ve got a mechanical switch which is what I really want. I remove the parts for the Christmas lights and add some wire to connect it to my blue light stick. There is just enough space behind the grip and under the hammer assembly where I can place the switch. I mark where I need to make changes to the body and carefully Dremel away the resin so the switch can fit inside. I explained this simply. but I went slow and carefully to carve out just what I needed. I didn’t want to ruin everything now. it is possible next time to modify the 3d model so it prints correctly to actually fit a switch and I’ve talked to some friends about helping me to be able to adjust the file to do that, it just hasn’t happened yet. Then I connect the switch to the blue LED and assemble the Cricket so I can see the light leaks, I only want blue light from the vents not from the spaces in between the parts. I don’t want that, and I don’t want that. I cut little strips of aluminum heater tape to use where I need to stop the light from leaking out. And superglue the halves together and close pens will hold the pieces until the glue sets. and I can just barely reach the switch which is perfect it’s supposed to be hidden anyway. The Mars is the second resin SLA printer that I’ve gotten to use and I like it. It’s an affordable printer with prints that need minimal cleanup before painting. Now I painted the Cricket chrome, which would really show off any print layer lines, and the slicer that it comes with is fast and user-friendly. It’s actually using the open-source slicer ChiTuBox which is a really good idea I think because it’s open source it’s going to evolve with file formats and you’re not going to be locked into something proprietary. And the ABS like resin was easy to work with after it setup, using a Dremel on it was easy and it painted very nicely. The self leveling build plate is really nice and the remove able cover that I was unsure of actually allows for easier access to the build plate and to clean the printer. You can get everywhere in here. Now those are all the positive things about the Mars printer- are there any cons? well I can only really nitpick a couple of little things. Nothing major came up with this guy, I mean the exhaust fan is a little louder than I expected. It’s not deafening or anything but it’s loud enough that I really can’t run the printer and record with my microphone at the same time. And the cover needs a place to set when it’s not on the printer, but that’s really nit picky because when it’s off it’s so much easier to be able to clean this thing. It’s a really good trade. Well that’s it so you know what’s what’s next for me to print the Oscillation Overthruster? A Droid Restraining bolt? Let me know what you think I should make next time on Odin Prints. If you liked the video don’t forget to subscribe. Have an idea for something for me to make? Please leave a comment below, and if you have making these projects you can send me a picture.