Playing Hockey with a 100-Year-Old Uniform ft. “Las Leonas” | Fashion Behind the Games


This is Past and Present –
the ultimate challenge to see how fashion has helped
sport move forward to this day. We travel all around the globe
to challenge six athletes and six designers
to make an old garment and test it
under today’s conditions. Let’s see what happens
when past and present collide. (PAST AND PRESENT – HOCKEY) (BUENOS AIRES, ARGENTINA) Meet Giselle Kanevsky. She is a former hockey player of the national
Argentinian team, known as “Las Leonas”. Bronze medallist in the Beijing
2008 Olympic Games. Retired in 2011, since then,
she has dedicated her life to fashion and design. That’s why we challenged her
to recreate the old garment used in the beginning
of hockey. In the beginning
of the 20th century, sports for women
was a social thing, and hockey was an opportunity
to show that a woman belonged to
a certain social class. The garments used by that time were the same as those used
for meetings or cocktails, obviously subject to
the restrictions of that time. Let’s see
the amazing transformation of hockey’s uniform
along these last 100 years. (THE CHALLENGE) The challenge is to recreate
that uniform and for a current player
to use it, and show and comment
on the differences. I proposed recreating
the hockey of the 1900s. Must have been
hard to move, right? We can clearly see the length
of the skirt. And the baby collar. We shared with her
the proposal she brought along, and the fabrics she chose. Each time I touched a fabric,
I could imagine myself playing with that skirt on
and saying, “I can’t play”. I would suffocate before
even starting. This one’s really good. – It’s heavier.
– It is heavier. I chose the heaviest one
so she suffers a bit more. But really, it’s a very
rigid spandex. I think that my main focus
was in the garment’s details. The design, the quality, and the elegance
that garment requires. Giselle will need an athlete
to test her recreation of the 1908 hockey garment – fortunately, she has
a very special friend that would like to help her – the three-time Olympian,
Carla Rebecchi. It’s surprising to see them
playing hockey like that. We’re so used to such
a different kind of thing. So comfortable
and with high mobility. And then you see them
in those clothes better suited for parties. Carla was considered
the best player in the World for several years. She won a bronze medal
in Beijing 2008 and a silver in London 2012. But still, she is thrilled
about this new challenge. Playing hockey as if
in the past century. I’ll check how they managed
to play at the time with those clothes. (DAY #1) Well, this would be
what I’m looking for. To really keep that collar,
those shoulders… This protruding fluff here. Well, Giselle chose
what she wanted and began working
with the model-maker on top of her body,
taking the first measures. After that we’ll see
what’s next, since sometimes we have
to go back a few steps to reach the final,
ideal product. This fluff is too high. I want this detail
to stick out a lot. She works the costume test
in detail, minding the arm holes,
the drape, the length over the person,
to feel how you want that garment to look like. And the end result
is very good. (DAY #2) We have to pass everything
on to the model-maker along with the data gathered. Then we load them to
a clothing pattern, a drawing, to be able to make
the patterns. We use cheviot fabrics,
poplin fabric, 100% cotton, all good quality. We make the prototype, the prototype is then cut
and sewn up, it is finished, then we do a costume test, and surely then we’ll have
to modify some things. Take other measures,
make it shorter or wider. I’d make it longer
and pull this up a bit. Give it a bit more volume. And the neck has to be round. We do a second test to achieve the quality
we always strive for. (DAY #3) I’m here today
for the second test. The last one, we hope. And if everything goes well,
we can see how it looks with the finishing touches
we discussed the last time. The first time we changed
the roll neck for a round neck. We added a lot of volume
to the sleeves’ puff. And we have longer cuffs,
and the skirt’s drape we also corrected –
looks good now. I’m really happy. At first I was scared
to start, because I didn’t know if
I’d be able to do it. But seeing it now, I feel that
we’re almost done. It’s awesome. I didn’t think
they could create something this similar,
almost identical to what they used back then. We were astonished
when we saw her. We laughed, it was hilarious. I don’t think
they sweated much. Not if they kept looking
this neat after the match. Imagine trying to play a sport
with these clothes. It’s crazy. – Now off to the court.
– Let’s test it. Let’s see how it goes. In a grass field, right? Giselle has done
an incredible job with the clothing. She has been doing research and finally resolved
the challenge to make the unwearable outfit. I look on point for a party,
but when it comes to hockey… not so much. Let’s see what happens
when past and present collide. (TEST #1) This is our first test. The short corner. The idea is to recreate
a situation she resolves all the time in the court, which stands out and makes her
the best player in the world. For this, we are going
to recreate a spectacular moment from
the Rio 2016 Olympic Games. We were just talking about
this goal she scored back in Rio, against India,
and we’ll recreate that move, to see how much
she’s constricted. This is going
to be fun. When I run, I can’t move. I can’t stretch,
I can’t get down, and this sweeping gesture
is mostly about stretching, making a long step
at the end. And that’s the hardest part.
I can’t do it. I can’t do the last step
properly long. Now we ask Carla
to repeat the test with the current
Leonas uniform. It’s so different.
Now it’s like flying. It’s amazing how thin
the fabric is. – Very.
– It’s like…nothing. Like wearing nothing. That long step allows you
to move the ball for a longer time,
which gives you the strength and the power for the shot. (TEST #2) And now it’s time
for test number 2. I think this should be
easier than sweeping. This is a usual play
for Carla in any game. She dribbles past
a lot of opponents and then shoots
at full speed, and always smashes it
right on the corner. Although she did it
quite well, this is not her full speed
and power, like in a match. Now we see Carla doing the
dribbling and shooting exercise with the current
Leonas uniform. It’s so different. Especially for the dribbling. I was feeling stuck
by the skirt. Now I felt so comfortable,
even shooting, since I could stretch
to hit the ball. Back then I was dragging,
now I’m flying. We’re just enjoying the quality
of her game. It’s tremendous. Well, this is curious. Again, again. With the modern outfit, Carla seems less precise
in front of the goal. It’s hard to miss going slow,
but at full speed, you will obviously
make some mistakes. OK, OK, this is science.
It’s not personal. (TEST #3) And now it’s time for our third
and final exercise. Now we’ll do a key exercise
for Carla, which is for speed. In this test, the athlete
has to make a short run from A to B a repeated
number of times, to test the velocity
of the apparel. The speed I can reach
in this outfit and the one I get to
with my normal clothes, like those in Rio, will be
entirely different, for sure. Let’s go to a split-screen
to see the differences between past and present. We can see that with
the old garment, Carla loses speed, her primary attribute
in the field. So, Carla, what do you think
about the outfit? It’s pretty tough. The clothes,
the shoes…my feet hurt. – Yeah…
– Stopping and sprinting… I can’t play a whole match
in these clothes. So you quit. Honestly, I can’t understand
how they managed to play. It really is quite cumbersome. The clothes are so heavy
and stuffy. Yeah, the weight. Probably the worst enemy
of any sport. This time, we have more
than a kilogram. That’s ridiculous. Even for the best player
in the world. But I think it was great
to be able to test and wear these clothes
to compare them and realise that nowadays
we really are privileged by playing with
our uniforms. Thanks for asking me
to do this. It really was amazing.
I enjoyed it so much. We had a blast,
it was so much fun. So yeah, I’m happy. Well, that’s it for today. Thanks, Giselle and Carla. You were both magnificent.
“Adios, amigas”. From its beginnings,
the field hockey’s outfit has taken the path
of functionality. The changes in the sport
have been so massive, not only in the length
of the skirts and the fabrics, but also
the surface of the fields and the sticks. The great teams have been
able to demonstrate character through their clothes,
which at the same time are the most efficient version
for the game. A truly great achievement. (PAST AND PRESENT)

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